![]() ![]() By running a piece of abs off the p-trap to go to the back of the cabinet, then a 90 and a short section of abs to go downwards, another 90 to come back to the front of the cabinet with short piece of abs, and one final 90 to connect to the drain in the cabinets floor I think might be a better setup.Īm I overthinking this or can I stay with the dry fit you see in the photo? For reference, the picture’s viewing angle is from slightly left of centre. Am I wrong? The drawn grey line is what I think I should do to definitively negate any potential siphoning issues. The potential for siphoning the water fence in the bottom of the trap still nags at me. Look at the picture and I have a feeling you might agree. ![]() Something still bugged me about my setup though. I dry fitted what I thought isn’t technically an s-trap. In Canada (and I believe in all 50 states as well) s-traps are illegal. The conundrum I’m facing now is that the drain comes up out of the bottom of the sink cabinet almost directly below the sinks tailpiece. There’s really no way of pin pointing exactly where the drain pipe will come up out of the bottom of the sink’s cabinet during rough in, so getting it “into” the cabinet was the best I could do. Flexible hose with smooth interior fits most sink configurations. Includes all the parts you need, no trips back to the store. Easy installation without tools, no need to cut and glue. I kept the vent connection but shortened the drain line about ten feet to allow for a new island sink drain. Snappy trap 1-1/2 in drain kit for single kitchen sinks, bar sinks and laundry sinks. The previous kitchen sink was on the wall (properly vented). The vent would T under the base cabinet, enter the wall, rise 45 degrees across the wall, turn up and tie into an existing vent line that goes to the top of the soils stack.įirstly thanks for taking the time to help all of us homedepot you-can-do-it-types. In this scenario the waste line ultimately goes through the floor into a crawl space, turns and goes straight across into the main soils line. ![]() could I use a 45 bend-nipple- to a 45 wye and then run my vent line off the top? My questions are, how long must the p-trap arm be to avoid being an S trap? And, is there a requirement on where I vent the waste line? e.g. I understand that I must vent the waste line after the p-trap arm before the line turns to go down. Also, I would worry a little bit about freezing if the sink was plumbed along the outside wall. I would like to do this to avoid cutting into a number of studs/cripples that are supporting a large window. I would like to drop the sink drain through the floor underneath the base cabinet rather than plumbing into the wall. I am remodeling my kitchen and moving the kitchen sink about 6' to an outside wall. ![]()
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